Sunday 29 June 2014

Cune Rioja Reserva 2009

Cune Reserva Rioja 2009
From - Rioja, Spain
Grape - Tempranillo, Graciano, Garnacha (Grenache)
Alc - 13.5%
Price - £12.99 (currently £9.99)
From - Waitrose

Appearance - Clean; medium + intensity; developed; garnet/tawny; consistent legs

Nose - Clean; medium+ intensity; developed; red fruit, spice, vanilla.

Taste; dry; medium acid; medium tannin; medium+ alcohol; medium+ length; cherries, a touch of black fruit, cloves, vanilla.

Conclusions - Very good; ready to drink, might improve.

Balance - 7 Length - 8 Intensity - 7 Complexity - 6.5

This is a really nice and interesting bottle of wine.  It has spent some time in oak, due to the 'Reserva' title (Spanish wines that have been oaked for periods of time are referred  to, in asciending order of time 'Crianza, Reserva or Gran Reserva).  Beronia Reserva Rioja is the same price, and I think that I found that one marginally more palatable, though.  It was just a touch smoother, I recall.  This is really good, though, and worth thirteen quid.


What is BLIC?

It is Balance - Length - Intensity - Complexity.  Considered a way of judging wine quality.

Balance is all the aspects of the wine are at more or less the same level (or not!).  Sometimes balance can be way out and the wine is still lovely. I recently read an article on line that argued that balance is not necessarily all that important. However, there is a strong argument that balance makes wine more drinkable, because if it is too (acidic/tannic/alcoholic/what-have-you) that becomes tiresome as you drink it.  Also, I recently had a bottle of Californian organic rose that will remain nameless for now, that had lovely subtle strawberry fruit that was totally dominated by the high alcohol level (possibly partly due to shoddy wine-making) that dominated the taste and as the bottle went down it became less pleasant.  So balance might be important, but you be the judge.  It is your experience and it is your money that has bought the wine.  To judge the balance, look back on how you scored the aspect of the taste, and the more they are at a similar level, the better the balance.

Length is the time that the flavours hang around when you take a drink.  Surely a wine that has more length delivers far better value for money than a wine that is pleasant for a few seconds and then is gone.  If I taste a wine with good length, then I think that the producers have given me something special.  You don't necessarily have to spend a fortune to get excellent length.  There is an Italian red and Chilean white that I will tell you about some time soon that have great length at nine quid a bottle.  I would encourage you to think about length next time you have a drink.  If you drink wine for the taste rather than just to dull the pain of existence, then this is an important factor for you to consider the REAL value for money your bottle is giving you.  Just a reminder, exclude the sensations of alcohol and tannin when considering the length.  It is the flavours that you are looking for.

Intensity is the strength of the flavour.  I do like intense flavours but I like subtlety, too.   For example, if you get a French Sauvignon Blanc, and put it next to a Marlborough (NZ) SB, the intensity of the latter would be far greater than the former, that are typically more restrained.  But who is to say that your bottle from Marlborough is better than a Pouilly Fume or Sancerre?  So intensity is an observation but not necessarily a sign of quality or superiority.  Otherwise Sancerre would not be considered as a beautiful wine.  Which in my experience, it is.  Saying that, it seems that NZ Sauvignon Blanc is all the rage, and for good reason.  A good Marlborough can be a faceful of aroma and taste, and a very exciting drink.

Complexity - this is what makes wine interesting.  I had the thrill of trying a Chateau Laroque 2010 recently that gave me so many different aspects of flavour and aromas that made my head spin.  It was totally thrilling.  On the other hand, I tried a merlot (that admittedly was a third of the price), which was a young and straightforward red, fine in the right context and nothing wrong with it, by comparison it was not very exciting.

If you score each of these out of ten, it can help you consider the wine's quality objectively.  It can also help you decide why you like/don't like a wine.


Friday 27 June 2014

Chapel Down Bacchus 2013

Wine - Chapel Down Bacchus 2013
From - Tenterden, England
Grape - Bacchus
Alc - 12%
Price - £12.99
From - Waitrose

Appearance - Clear, pale, lemon-green.  Rim more intense than core.

Nose - Clean, medium intensity, developing.  Lime, herbs, apple and nettle.

Taste - medium acid, medium alcohol, medium body.  Lime, apple, grass, gooseberry and possibly a touch of vegetal.  Medium + length.

Quality - Good, mid-price, ready to drink.

Balance - 7/10, Length - 7/10  Intensity - 6/10  Complexity - 7/10

For the first one on my blog, I have chosen an English wine from Tenterden in Kent.  Bacchus is quite similar to Sauvignon Blanc.  It is named after the God of getting drunk!  When grown in England, and therefore in a cooler climate, it is more acidic.

I found it refreshing and could identify the similarity to Sauvignon Blanc.  It tasted like SB but also reminded me of a simple Chardonnay.  I would say that you could probably get a bit better value from a Sauv Blanc from, say Chile for the same price or less.  However I think it is terrific that this wine was made so close to home.

The nose and length were both very good.  I would drink this again.


Thursday 26 June 2014

Here is a link to the WSET Level 2 Systematic Approach to Tasting.

http://www.wsetglobal.com/documents/l2_wines_sat_2014_eng_lo_web.pdf

 This will be the basis upon which I will be making my tasting notes.  I will also include, at least at the start, some bits that I capture in my Times Wine Diary that my sister Siobhain got for me.

Some people say that tasting is snobbish or silly but I completely disagree.  Taking the time to think about the sensory experience you are having can only enhance it.  It also lets you think about what it is you like or dislike about a wine, which will help you in selecting other wines that would suit your palate.  Also, it may help you see virtue in a wine that you might otherwise not recognise.

Please take a look at the link above, now.

Pour a small-ish amount into a glass.

There is lots of info about the tasting on the link, but just making a few points -
It helps consider the appearance of a glass of wine if you have good, preferably natural light, and something white like a sheet of paper to hold behind it.  Tilt it away from you a bit and have a look.

The categories are pretty obvious I think but 'rim v core', that is when you examine the wine in the glass, comparing the middle bit above the stem (core) to the bit round the edge of the glass.  You might find the intensity greater in one than the other.

The 'legs/tears' are when you swirl the drink round the glass, and it 'sticks' to the glass and slowly dribbles down - this is caused by alcohol content.

'Pettilance' refers to the presence of a small amount of carbon dioxide in the wine.

The olfactory (smell) side of wine is really important, I think.  In fact, most of our sense of taste relies on our olfactory function.  Before taking a sniff, some (eg Oz Clarke) say you should swirl the wine in the glass to allow the air to release the aroma.  On my recent course, the Master of Wines said that he said put your hand over the glass for a few moments and hold the glass in your hand with your hand over the filled part, for a moment or two.  Try both for yourself.  I tend to swirl.

Regarding the 'Nose', the terms are generally fairly obvious, I think.  Development is challenging - you have to judge whether the wine is likely to mature to a better, more interesting wine.  I think I am a long way from having strong views on many wines.  Sometimes it is obvious, though, when you have a youthful, fruity, uncomplicated wine that you know will be likely to only fade with time.

Palate - now is the time to put the drink in your gob.  Take a good swig, and swirl it round your mouth.  Think about all the things you are experiencing. Swallow it or spit it out (yes I know, oo-er Mrs), and take some breaths through your nose to make the most of the aftertaste.

Most wine you will probably drink will be dry.  With any luck, though, you will try a variety.  I will certainly be including some wines in my blog that are sweet.

You can identify the acidity in the wine, from the sensation on the side of your tongue, but don't mistake tannin for acid.  You'll be able to tell the difference before long.  Often, but not always, grapes that grow in cooler climates will have greater acid, such as Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Noir.  Chenin Blanc grown in warmer climes is still rather acidic, however.  Another trick to identifying the presence of acid is that it will make your mouth water.

Tannin is the bitter and mouth-drying sensation you get from the grape skins.  I am sure that everyone has eaten grapes that have that effect on your mouth.  However, tannin may be present in wines but not astringent, but will add to the body of the wine.  In higher-quality wines that age, tannin can really add to the complexity and interest.

You can taste the alcohol, and this is the main aspect in body - how heavy the wine is in your mouth.  Sometimes when the wine is not well balanced or well made the alcohol taste can be a bit rough or dominant.  Body can also be contributed to by sugar content, or tannin (to an extent).

Mousse is the amount of fizz in a sparkly wine.

The length is how long the flavours and aromas hang around in your mouth and nose once the booze has gone into your stomach or spitoon.  Exclude the sensations of alcohol or tannin when you consider the length.  I think that length is a sign of a good wine.

In your conclusions, again it is a real expert call but it is still worth passing judgement.  Take a look at some of the suggestions on how you might describe the aromas and flavours and consider whether they apply to what you are experiencing.  Remember, 'oak' qualities don't actually taste of wood, but it refers to taste qualities imparted on the wine as it conditions whilst in contact with oak.

Don't forget tasting is a massively subjective experience.  Try and stick some labels on what you are experiencing (eg getting a taste of gooseberry and cut grass off a Sauvignon Blanc), see what the label says and see whether you agree.  Give a tasting a try and let me know how you get on.

Just to remind you if you have forgotten, you experience sweetness at the front of your tongue, bitterness at the back, acid on the sides and salt in the middle.

Happy looking/sniffing/swigging!  Love Martin.






Thursday 19 June 2014

Introduction

Having started working in wine retail a year or so ago, I have learnt to assess wine using the WSET Systematic Approach to Tasting.

My partner Jo reckoned that I should start posting my notes as a blog, and other people agreed, so here is that blog!

I have completed my WSET Level 2 study successfully, but I am by no means an expert.  Some of my assessments may be way off the mark but I would be delighted to get other opinions - in fact that is the main point of me starting the blog.  So feel free to let me know what you think.

Although some of you may know, or perhaps take a confident guess at where I work, I must emphasise that this blog is completely personal and it represent my views and my views alone.  Through this blog I do not intend to represent any person or organisation other than myself.

Also, without wanting to sound po-faced, I think that getting smashed is NOT clever, and alcoholism is NOT funny.  I believe that we all have a responsibility to ourselves and our loved-ones to take care of our health.

I do intend to post other stuff in relation to wine that I know or find out that I think are interesting. I hope you like what you read, and let me know what you think.  Suggestions for improvement are welcomed every bit as much as compliments.

With much love, Martin Hynes.